Coming face to face with a sambha–Indian antelope– at the Keolodev Ghana Bird Sanctuary at Bharatpur
Because the whole point of a safari or of a bird watching expedition is to be able to catch sight of as many furred or winged creatures as possible, one needs to get to them at first light when they emerge from their night time hideouts to feed and drink at watering holes. Our excursion to see migratory Siberian birds took us to the bird sanctuary at Bharatpur early one cold morning when, anticipating the freezing temperatures, we dressed warmly and left our train.
Arriving at Bharatpur while it was still dark, we were transferred to cycle-rickshaws, another interesting mode of Indian transport which Palace on Wheels passengers were given the opportunity to experience. The rickshaw driver functions as a tracker, ‘sighter’ and commentator and one can only hope for a competent guide who, in addition to possessing the necessary knowledge and skills, can also speak English in order to pass on his invaluable information to his passengers. We were not disappointed. Our driver was an expert ‘sighter’ and as he pedaled deeper and deeper into the sanctuary, he seemed to see our winged friends in spots that we would never have dreamed of looking. Initially, the mile after mile of dry shrubbery seemed to yield nothing at all, for, as our driver informed us, the monsoon has been scarce for several years and the watering holes have all but dried up.
(The range of birds that we spotted at Bharatpur included Ibis and Egret, Herons and Kingfishers)
For migratory birds from Northern Europe to be attracted to settle and nest in these spots, they require water.
Then, just when it seemed as if our excursion would be another wild goose chase (pun unintended!), the landscape opened up and daylight broke over the sanctuary to reveal hordes of hidden birds such as ibis and egrets, herons, kingfishers and owls in the shallow wetlands that encompass the eleven square miles of ‘ghana’ or dense forest that make up this area. In-between we saw sambha or antelope and nilgai or blue bull so tame, they walked right past us without batting an eyelid while we clicked pictures furiously, not willing to let the intimate moments with such wild creatures pass us by. Despite the fact that the wetlands are now almost dry and the presence of the Siberian crane is just a happy memory in these parts, we spent one of the most unforgettable mornings of our trip on this wonderful excursion.
Plus, the outing afforded another one of the heartwarming moments that I will always carry with me from my travels in India: the beaming smile and grateful salaam I received from our rickshaw driver when I tipped him handsomely for his efforts as a tracker and sighter and when I peeled off my warm woolen gloves and presented them to him because his had holes in them as large as new potatoes. He was so surprised by my gesture that he put them straight into his pocket! “Try them on”, I urged him, “see if they will fit you”. But he was so busy being astonished by my gesture that a sudden shyness came over him and turning quickly away, perhaps to shield himself from embarrassment, he thanked me quietly and made off in a hurry.
It was moments like these–moments of sudden giving–that rewarded me with some of the most brilliant smiles I saw on my travels–smiles that were worth their weight in gold. It still warms my heart to realize that somewhere on that paved sanctuary road in the boondocks of Bharatpur, is a cycle rickshaw-driver who, on wintry mornings, no longer needs to blow upon his freezing blue fingers or to warm them at a passing campfire.
(To continue to follow on our travels with The Palace on Wheels, please click the Agra link.)
Bon Voyage!
