(Inside the unique Cathedral-Mezquita, the only structure in the world that includes a cathedral and a mosque)
The drive from Seville to Cordoba took us just under two hours. The rest allowed us to feel renewed interest in the city that lay across both banks of the River Guadalquivir that wends its way throughout this region. Unlike the ease with which we found underground public parking for our Citroen in Madrid and Seville, Cordoba was a nightmare. All public parking was on the streets and not a single spot was available. Feeling deeply frustrated from our futile search, we were deeply grateful to solicit the aid of a local Spanish man whose English was non-existent but whose willingness to help knew no bounds. He actually signaled that we should follow him as he led us to an overnight parking facility in a spot very close to the Mezquita-Cathedral which is Cordoba’s leading attraction.
Cordoba’s Mezquita or Mosque, which is recognized as the most significant work of Islamic architecture in the West, was first constructed between AD 785 and 787. As the centuries passed, succeeding rulers added on to it, creating a gigantic space for Friday prayers. By the 10th century, this edifice acquired the elaborate mihrab (prayer niche) that once held a golden Koran and the muqsaba (caliph’s enclosure) under the orders of al Hakam II. What distinguishes Cordoba’s Mezquita from any other such house of worship is the endless numbers of “horse shoe arches”, some double tiered, with their candy-stripe paint, supported on a mass of pillars made of different materials, mainly marble, jasper and alabaster. Most of these pillars were taken from older Roman and Visigothic buildings so that they lack any kind of visual uniformity. The Mosque is entered through a minaret that led the faithful into a Patio de los Naranjos or Orange Grove whose central fountain was used by the faithful for washing purposes before they entered the mosque to pray. Needless to say, the arrival of Christianity in Cordoba put paid to Muslim worship and while swift steps were taken to create a cathedral out of the mosque, the extraordinary beauty and sheer size of the Mezquita prevented its destruction. Instead the Catholics went about creating a gorgeous Cathedral inside, destroying a small part of the mosque to accommodate it. This makes Cordoba’s Mezquita the only building of its kind in the world today: for it is a Cathedral that exists within the borders of what was once an active place of Islamic worship. No pains were spared to make the capilla mayor of the cathedral as visually stunning as the rest of the mosque so that the transept is a confection of Baroque excess, plainly evident in the pillars, cornices, arches and niches of the nave. Photographs can do no justice to such interior grandeur. Part of the treasury in the Mezquita was a monstrously sized monstrance made entirely of gold and silver that is, unbelievably, still hauled out during public processions in the city.
Before darkness fully robbed us of the pleasures of a stroll through the adjoining Jewish district called La Juderia, we followed the winding streets into the heart of picturesque patios and plazas, most of which hold pavement cafes and souvenir shops today. Needless to say, the auto da fe or Trials of Faith that were part of the Spanish Inquisition led to the permanent expulsion of the Jews from Spain so that the districts they inhabited became antiquated living museums of their erstwhile prosperity. It is ironic that the Jews who enjoyed religious freedom under the Moors were tormented by the Catholics who even after their conversion to Christianity refused to respect their sincerity and persecuted them as “false Christians”. What we realized from our travels in Andalucia was that Catholicism has a great deal to answer for indeed. No wonder the Protestant Reformation swept across Europe during the Renaissance, though , surprisingly, it left Spain entirely unmoved.
When we had explored the city sufficiently to need a nap and a break, we headed out in search of our Bed and Breakfast Lineros, a short twenty minute walk from the main mosque area. We loved the charming interior of our place. Built in mujedar style, it had a central patio that formed the reception area. The interiors of our rooms were so charmingly decorated with four poster beds, wooden armoirs or almirahs as the Moors called them, and Islamic designs on the bed linens. We decided to take short naps before going out to La Juderia to find a suitable restaurant for a good Andalucian meal. Once again referring to our guidebooks, we opted for La Churassca Restaurant on Calle Romero that offered a variety of barbecued meats. Set in a traditional white-washed building in the heart of the Jewish district, the restaurant was very sweetly decorated with all kinds of regional motifs including ceramic tiles and serve ware that are the hallmarks of the potteries of this area. Our waiter, a gracious old man who was both attentive and helpful, suggested we start off with traditional Spanish Potato Omlettes (4.50 euros) and that we taste the Grilled Pork Loin served with Sauce Arabes (12.50 Euros) for which the restaurant is well reputed. We placed ourselves in his hands and found the meal quite enjoyable though not outstanding. In fact, none of the restaurants came quite up to the standard of the one in Madrid that served us such a memorable paella. A late night stroll along the banks of the Guadalquivir to our hotel ended another very exciting day for us.
Early the next morning, we hit the highways again en route to Toledo, medieval city and imperial gem.
Bueno Viajes!