Terrific Toledo
Where Don Quixote and El Greco Dominate
(The beautiful city of Toledo on the River Tagus)
Our drive to Toledo took us through the very heartland of Spain into Castilla-La-Mancha, made famous by Cervantes’ novel Don Quixote that featured the adventures of the dreamy knight and his paunchy sidekick Sancho Panza (below).
The Spanish plains are dry, arid and dusty but have been fabulously well irrigated to grow purple crocus that produces Spain’s valuable condiment, saffron. Olive groves are another key crop in the region and animal rearing is equally evident. Close to the town of Consuegra, we hit the Tourist Route that takes Cervantes’ fans into the region made familiar by the windmills over which Quixote tossed his proverbial hat. Reminiscences of the novel are seen in the few inns and tabernas we passed that are named after the novels’ characters.
Toledo is picturesquely sited high on the hills above the Tagus River that flows regally through the medieval town. Driving though the town, you soon understand why the UNESCO World Heritage Foundation has placed the entire city under its protection for indeed it is a living museum. Every building is significant, every stone is historic, every pebble tells a story. Muslim, Jewish and Christian influences co-exist in this unique and graceful city for the Romans, the Visigoths, and the Moors made this settlement their home, each adding their own imprint to create a mosaic of pluralism and cultural diversity. We did not have the time to linger in this lovely town, but we did spend a whole afternoon there focusing on its three main attractions.
Walking Toledo’s toy town like streets can be a frustrating business for everything is an uphill climb. Almost all the streets look the same, bordered by red brick walls and lined by souvenirs shops. When we did arrive at the Iglesia de Santo Tome (The Church of St. Thomas), we found it mobbed by tourist groups, all eagerly viewing El Greco’s most famous religious painting, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz which is on the right hand side at the main entrance. This painting features the miracle that occured at the burial of the Count who was the church’s main patron and a great humanist. St. Steven and St. Augustine are said to have come down from heaven to place the Count themselves in his crypt which lies just below the painting in a stone sarcophagus. This huge canvas contains a self-portrait of the artist as well one of his son whom he considered to be his finest “work”. There are also portraits of Cervantes and several senior prelates of the church. As a religious work, it is a showcase for El Greco’s marvelous talent and sensitivity. No wonder the painting has never been moved from this venue.
Our next stop was Toledo’s colossal Cathedral whose spires rise high above the city and are easily visible as one approaches it. Work on this gothic edifice began in 1226 and spanned three centuries. It was mind boggling for us to come to terms with the fact that these churches were completed long after the donors who paid for their construction were alive. This cathedral’s sacristy is crammed with El Greco paintings for the artist made Toledo his home in the 16the century—almost all the apostles’ portraits are here as are other silver and gold relics and sacred objects. I found the Baroque altarpiece by Narciso Tome made of marble, jasper and bronze the most stunning piece of work in a space that was distinctive for its Gothic design elements.
Taking a break for some cooling sangria in a street side café, we finally made our way to the Sinagoga del Transito, which is notable for its mujedar interior design despite its deceptively humble façade. It was built in the 14th century by Samuel Ha-Levi, when Jews were allowed to live peaceably in Spain under Moorish rule. The synagogue, one of only two in all of Spain blended so many interesting design features—Islamic, Gothic and Hebraic—and had the added advantage of providing the visitor with a Sephardic Museum that documented the lives of Spanish or Sephardic Jews before they were driven out of Spain by the Catholic Rulers.
Our rambles done, we returned to our car for our final drive to Madrid from where we boarded our flight back home to the States at the end of ten incredible days.
Bueno Viajes!