City of the Beatles, Cathedrals and Historic Pubs
Long known as the birthplace of the Beatles, Liverpool has an unrivaled passion for music and visitors can take their own Magical Mystery Tour around the town with a visit to many of the sites that the Beatles made famous in their songs such as Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields, etc. The Cavern Club where they first began performing as a group is a part of this tour as is the childhood home of Sir Paul McCartney.
For those not quite given to Beatlemania, the city’s maritime history might be of particular interest. Start exploring this city around Albert Dock, a stunning piece of architecture that dates back to 1846. Developed today as Liverpool’s busiest quarter, it boasts every variety of shop, restaurant and music club. One can also take a ferry across the Mersey River to enjoy lovely views of the city’s skyline, the Pier Head and its notable three graces: The Royal Liver Building, The Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building, all at the heart of the famous waterfront.
The Dean Walters Building on the campus of John Moore’s University (above and at right below)
I left New York on a drizzling fall day, taking the Air Train from Queens, for the first time, to Kennedy airport. American Airlines’ red eye flight, a tube ride from Heathrow to Victoria and an endless drive through the Midlands, the very backbone of England. A National Express coach finally brought me to Liverpool after night had long fallen. I checked into my hotel, ate an early dinner and fell asleep exhausted after a journey that had lasted endless hours.
Liverpool John Moores University Campus
The next day, a taxi ride at what seemed like the crack of dawn on a proverbially gray English morning took me to the campus of Liverpool John Moores University to participate in a conference on Audiences and Popular Culture. A chatty cabbie pointed a few of Liverpool’s landmarks to me as we skimmed by the sleepy streets, suggesting that I pay a visit to the two cathedrals on the same street—a unique occurrence only found in Liverpool, he assured me.
(Seated in-between fellow participants during my panel’s presentation at the Conference–below right)
All went well at the conference where I had a chance to meet several British academics and American grad students working in my field. My paper on the gangster crime film genre in Bollywood was met with a warm reception and elicited questions at the end of the panel discussion.
My visit to Liverpool was short, but business did not prevent me from exploring some of its better-known sights. In-between sessions, I did find the time to stroll through the neat city streets. It was fun to come upon a stack of metal (yes, literally a stack of metal sculptures, as seen in the picture on the left), featuring a number of suitcases piled one on top of the other at a busy street intersection. This must have something to do with Liverpool’s sea-faring history and the fondness for exploration of its people.
Eventually I did get to the cathedrals—first, the massive Anglican Cathedral which was right outside the Dean Walters Building in which our conference was held. This Gothic structure took one hundred years to build and was finally completed in 1904. Inside I felt dwarfed by its startling dimensions, its soaring ceiling, its mammoth columns, the fan vaulting and stained glass window.
Hurrying quickly along to the other end of the street, I arrived at the Catholic Cathedral of Christ the King which offered a complete contrast in architecture in that its style was not merely Modernistic but Futuristic. Originally designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, celebrated Edwardian architect of New Delhi, the cathedral is built around a circular plan resembling a Roman amphitheater more than it does a Christian house of worship. Inside, beautiful stained glass panels and chandeliers emphasized the interesting structural lines of the edifice. The picture below shows the very unique modern design of the Cathedral.
When the conference adjourned for the day, we made our way to the Tabac Restaurant for dinner, partaking of a bargain three course meal that included wine and dessert. Then, because most of the delegates wanted to experience Liverpool’s swinging night life, we adjourned for after-dinner drinks to a pub called The Philharmonic, on 36 Hope Street, a stunning space set in an old building. Affectionately know as “The Phil”, the Philharmonic Dining Rooms takes its name from the Philharmonic Hall opposite. The Pub, in its early days, was particularly used by ladies and gentlemen attending the Philharmonic Hall concerts. “The Phil” represents a dazzling piece of Victorian flamboyance and has been described as “the most ornate pub in Britain”. In fact, Egon Ronay declared that “If a pub could be a work of art, the Philharmonic is that pub”. The pub is perhaps most famous for its extravagant gentleman’s toilet with marble washbasins, copper taps and exquisite glazed urinals. It has become the tradition to allow ladies to view the toilet, providing they get permission to do so first. Of course, our hosts from Liverpool John Moores University made sure we sneaked a peak at this ostentatious place. The two smoke rooms, filled with stunning interior décor elements are named after composers Brahms and Liszt, a reminder of the past when musical evenings were held in the Grande Lounge. The Philharmonic was crowded with people the evening we were there, providing standing room only. Over English draft beer, we exchanged business cards and toured the posh interiors of the pub with its ornamental fireplaces, carved paneled walls and exquisite old English tiles in Art Décor motifs.
Liverpool doesn’t take more than two days to visit, but it could well be an interesting starting point for any tour of the North of England.
Bon Voyage!