Tag Archive | Guildhall Art Gallery

Another Working Morning at NYU-London, Visit to the Guildhall and Tea with a Colleague

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

London

Once again, I awoke early (by 6.00 am) and contemplated going for Morning Mass to the Benedictine Abbey which is not far from where I live–but the morning was wet and drizzly and dark and I do believe it might be a better idea to do a ‘rekky’ of the area first–find out exactly where the church is–before I go looking for it while it is still dark. Yes, autumn is here and the days have closed in: sunrise is later and sunset comes faster now–so I try to fit in as much as I can during daylight hours.

Hence, what I did accomplish, apart from writing a blog post and catching up with email, was the proofreading of one more chapter of my book (as I have an urgent end-October date for submission of the manuscript). I finished most of it before I stopped to have breakfast (fresh toasted croissants with peanut butter and Nutella with coffee) and had a shower. It is great to be able to watch BBC’s Breakfast show while munching. I left my house at 10.00 am on schedule and was at NYU by 10. 35am.

Hard at Work in my Office:

I spent the next three and half hours hard at work as I printed out and proofread my chapters (I manage two per day), read and responded to work email as it came in after the USA woke up and began the editing of the vast amount of sightseeing memorabilia that I collect at every venue I visit. Since I wish to mail all this printed material back to the USA, I am trying to cull through it so that only the ones I actually will use in my Travel scrapbooks will  make it to America. I am doing it in batches as I intend to go off to the post office at the end of this week and mail some of it off right now. No doubt I shall accumulate a lot more material at the weeks go by–but I shall mail those off later.

My British colleague Valerie Wells popped in to give me an article she found on an Anglo-Indian woman who is compiling a book on Anglo-Indian recipes from her great grandmother who spent time in India. It was lovely to visit with her for a few minutes and to know that some of my British colleagues are aware of the topic of my research.

Off to the Guildhall:

It was a lovely sunny (if a bit nippy) afternoon and I had intended to spend it at one of my favorite parts of London that I have not yet visited–foolishly… as I should have gone there in the summer: the Kyoto Gardens at Holland Park. But then I received an email from my colleague Emma at NYU-London wondering if I could meet her for tea that evening at 5.00 pm at Gail’s on Bedford Square. I was keen to do so and re-arranged my plans for the afternoon.

Hence, I decided to go someplace closer (that would allow me to meet her on schedule) and went on impulse to the Guildhall instead. You might remember that when I had visited the Guildhall Art Gallery in August, I was unable to enter the Guildhall itself as it was under major renovation. I was told to return to see it in September, but since I was traveling for most of September, I went today instead. I took the Central Line Tube from Tottenham Court Road to Bank and walked for five minutes to the Guildhall where I arrived at about 2. 30 pm.

Visiting the Guildhall:

London’s Guildhall is a secular Medieval building that dates from 1411–it is built on top of a series of medieval crypts. It gets its name from the various medieval guilds that ran the city and has been the seat of government of The City of London since the Middle Ages presided over by a Lord Mayor–one of the most famous is Dick Wittington of story-book fame. The outside of the building resembles a Gothic Cathedral with its towering spire and its elaborate tracery on stained glass windows. It stands in a beautiful square flanked by the modern Guildhall Art Gallery built in the 1960s and the medieval church of St. Lawrence Jewry–so-called because it stands in part of The City that was once inhabited mainly by Jews–and where I have often attended lunch-time classical music concerts.

There is security to go through before you enter the Guildhall. While it is open to visitors today for free, there is only really one large room to see–a sort of Medieval Hall that looks a bit like the Dining Halls at the medieval universities of Oxford or Cambridge. There are massive stained glass windows at both ends of the hall in the classic Gothic arched shape. There are also huge sculptures along the sides–you will easily recognize Winston Church in forbidding black bronze and that of Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Trafalgar, in white marble. Alongside him is a sculpture honoring Nelson and his famed victory at Waterloo. And flanking him, on the other side, is a sculpture to William Pitt with one to his son on the opposite side. These huge monuments are wonderful testaments to Victorian sculpting expertise and are worth seeing.

However, the most famous of the sculptures in the Guildhall belong to Mog and Magog who stand high up on the balcony and look down at the frequent official proceedings. They are medieval knights dressed in the garb of Roman soldiers. They strike wonderful figures in stone and fresh gold paint. Indeed the very structure and shape of the Guildhall reminds you of knights and you can easily imagine a time when they came right off horseback to participate in Round Table-like meetings in this wonderful space.

This space was also the spot of various important trials through the ages. Some of the cases that were heard here and some of the people that were condemned to death were poor Lady Jane Grey (rightful heir to the British throne who was killed on false charges so that she and her line could not succeed to the throne), Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey( yes, the Elizabethan poet), Archbishop Cranmer (from the era of Henry VIII), Henry Garnett who was one of the co-conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot (although, for some reason, Guy Fawkes is much better known) and a bunch of Roman Catholics who preferred to hang on to their own religion. So. history and great sculptural art coalesce in this space and I was happy to peruse it.

Victorians De-Coded at the Guildhall Art Gallery:

My friend Barbara had suggested we see the exhibition entitled ‘Victorians Decoded’ at the Guildhall Art Gallery and since I was so close and had a bit of time on my hands, I popped in there. The exhibition is at the basement level of the Gallery (which I have visited frequently over the years). It is based on a connection between forms of telecommunication in the Victorian Age and the paintings in the Guildhall’s collection. The most famous and beloved of them is Lord Leighton’s Music Lesson which most visitors photograph because it is a classical Victorian work of art that captures so beautifully the intimacy of instruction between a mother and daughter. The background (an elaborate Turkish villa) with its architectural details and the grandeur of the clothing they wear, make this a stunning work of art in terms of its marvelous use of color. There were other major works, of course, but I have to say that oftentimes I could not see the connection between the concept of ‘signals’ and the works on display.

I also used the occasion of my visit to browse through a few of the paintings in the permanent collection upstairs before I left the Gallery for my next appointment. I love this part of London with its financial air about it and the purposeful looks on the faces of almost everyone on the streets as they go to and fro from their high-powered offices to the streets below. I am sorry that since I will not be in London that day, I will miss the Lord Mayor’s Procession that takes place once a year (this year on November 12) when the Lord Mayor goes forth in a grand golden coach drawn by handsome horses and preceded by his Guardsmen from Mansion House (his home and office) down Cheapside!

 

Tea with a Colleague:

I took the No. 8 bus terminating at Holborn and got off at Bloomsbury where, for just a few minutes, I popped into the Cartoon Museum to see if it was worth visiting. There is a 7 pound entry fee–so I might just keep it for later! It has a very nice shop, however, and I am amazed that people still find it–being that it is tucked away in a corner between Coptic and Museum Streets on Little Russel Street in front of the British Museum–a very witty location. For the grand British Museum in on Great Russel Street!

I was meeting my colleague Emma who teaches at NYU-London and who had an hour-long break between classes. She suggested we meet at Gail’s Tea Room where she arrived a little after I got there. We shared a pot of peppermint tea and caught up on her publications. She has just had a novel published (Owl Song at Dawn) and has a second book on Literary Female Friendships coming out early next year. Hence, she is hard at work meeting various deadlines. It is inspiring to be in the company of other women who are also working on books and, like myself,  are juggling research and writing schedules as we work towards deadlines.

 

Back Home for Dinner:

Emma had to leave for her class at 6.00 pm and I left soon after. I took the Tube from Tottemham Court Road and got home at 6. 45 but was surprised by a visit from the local realtor who brought two young men in to see my flat which goes on the rental market after my departure.

When they were gone, I got ready for dinner–I had a chicken and gravy pie that I bought from Sainsbury and I ate it with a lettuce and corn salad and a bowl of chocolate ice-cream for dessert while I watched TV.

I had a fairly early night and was in bed by 10.30 am when I fell asleep almost immediately.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

Exploring the East End–and Dinner in Chelsea with an Old Bailey Judge

Friday, January 23, 2015

London

Today was all about the East End of London–admittedly, it is not a part of the city that I particularly like or feel connected to; so it was partly to see what lies so well concealed in its corners that I set out, at 9. 30 am, after a shower and a big breakfast of toasted walnut bread and peanut butter, hazelnut yoghurt and coffee. The Jubilee Line Tube from St. John’s Wood took me, on a lovely sunny but still very cold morning, to Liverpool Street Station from where I hopped into a Number 26 bus to get started.

Columbia Road Flower Market:

First stop was Columbia Road–site, only on Sundays, of a dazzling flower market that has become highly touristic. I had never been there but wanted to stroll through the street–because although there are no flowers to be seen on weekdays, there are some lovely shops selling unique merchandise and I wanted to browse through them. Only, I did not realize that the shops also open only on Saturdays and Sundays! It was a wasted journey but at least I did get to see the general gentrification of the neighborhood, the pretty shop fronts all painted in vivid colors and to stroll through really quiet parts of the city–it is impossible to believe that a bustling city like London still conceals areas like these in which one can scarcely hear a sound. The shops are truly lovely and do offer very unique gift items–the sort of shop for someone who has everything. Do go on a Sunday. It is a treat I shall have to postpone until my next visit–as I will be airborne Stateside, come Sunday.

Whitechapel Art Gallery:

Next stop on my agenda was the Whitechapel Art Gallery which I then reached by a rather convoluted route–10 minute walk to Shoreditch, then 254 bus towards Aldgate.  This is Muslim London and from the top deck of my bus, I took in the stores selling all manner of Islamic garb, halal food, etc. People entered the bus in ethnic outfits–bearded men, veiled women. We passed by the East London Mosque–a lovely pink building with domes and minarets and then we were arriving at my stop.

My friend Murali, an Abstract Art enthusiast, had recommended a special exhibition called The Adventures of the Black Square that features 150 years of abstract art built around the black square of  Malevich that served as inspiration to generations of artists. The website of the gallery and the banners flying outside it proudly announce that  admission is free. When I was last at this gallery–about three years ago–it had been under renovation. So, I was pleased to peruse its collections (nothing permanent, always changing). Imagine my annoyance then on discovering that there was a ticket for the special exhibition–12 pounds! I decided that I was not that crazy about abstract art to begin with and would rather put my money on the Moroni portraits at the Royal Academy of Art.

So, I hiked to the upper floors to look at some of their current exhibitions and very rewarding it was too! There is one on papers from the Henry Moore Archives that document the commissioning of some of London’s public sculptures such as the Jacob Epstein ones, Lawrence Bradshaw’s famous bust of Karl Marx for Highgate Cemetery, etc. It was very interesting to read the correspondence that went into these commissions and take a look at some marquettes. It was certainly a good place in which to take a call from Llew and to catch him up on my plans for the day.

Whitechapel Bell Foundry:

It was time to move on to yet another Whitechapel attraction that lies right across the street behind an extremely nondescript  shop front: the Whitechapel Bell Foundry. This place, at the corner of a street has been making bells continually since 1520. A bell historian has actually established that a bell-making outfit stood on these premises since 1470–so it is rich in history and, as a listed home, its facade cannot be changed or touched. Not that I would want it to be any different.

Inside, there are three small rooms exhibiting items associated with the foundry’s history. Most famous for having cast Big Ben (whose template in a cross section is draped over the inside front door) as well as the twin bells of Westminster Abbey, this place has also created some of the most significant bells in the USA–such as the Liberty Bell of Philadelphia and a Bicentenary Bell that was presented by Queen Elizabeth II to America in 1976 to celebrate two centuries of American independence. It certainly is a great place to visit and one I would heartily recommend. Again, tours are given only on Saturdays and Sunday and cost 14 pounds each. These tours take you deep into the foundry (still a working foundry, still casting bells of all kind for the global market) to see the various steps involved in the making of bells–from small hand hell ringers to the giants that acquire names–such as Big Ben or Old Tom (in Tom Tower, Christ Church College, Oxford). In a tiny back room, overlooking the tinier yard, where bells in various unfinished stages repose, you can watch a series of slides that take you through the history of the establishment that has frequently been visited by royalty.

A Stroll through Spitalfields:

It was time to take a stroll–a very long one–all along Commercial Street and towards Spitalfields, another very colorful and ethnically diverse part of London. Along the way I passed by Petticoat Lane, famed for a weekly market held there since Victorian times. Today, it is mainly a market for clothes–rejects from the designer shops are offloaded here for a song. Had I more of a weight allowance, I might have indulged. But I decided to pass on to the next item on my agenda–a visit to Old Spitalfields Market which I reached in another five minutes.

Old Spitalfields Market is another one of those London Covered Markets that offer different merchandise daily–vintage and antique items one day, arts and crafts on another. Today, there was a melange of all sorts of things from old vinyl records to artisinal bread. I took a quick look through the stalls, found absolutely nothing to strike my fancy and exited right in front of the area’s most spectacular building–the edifice of Christ Church, Spitalfields–the work of Nicholas Hawksmoor, pupil of Christopher Wren, it is simply majestic.

Buying a Barbour:

As I continued walking towards Bishopsgate, I passed right by a Barbour shop selling its signature outdoor wear. Now I had always coveted a Barbour jacket and I decided I would pop in to purchase something especially since loud signs on the door proclaimed 50-70% Off Sale!  So imagine my delight when I came upon a lovely quilted jacket on sale in just my size in a lovely satiny burgundy fabric with tweed collar and accents on spacious pockets! It could not have been more Me! Knowing that Barbour usually costs an arm and a leg, I made the impulsive decision to buy it–and at under 100 pounds, I know it is a steal! Armed with my unexpected buy, I strode down the street to the bus stop to catch a bus towards Bishopsgate.

Guildhall Art Gallery:

I was going on another recommendation to the next item on my agenda–one from my friend Barbara: a visit to the newly-reopened Guildhall Art Gallery deep in the heart of commercial London. Surrounded by banks and financial institutions, the Guildhall is a stunning building that dates from medieval times when guilds still controlled all London business. Adjoining it is the Art Gallery that has a huge collection of significant art mostly acquired through one of the Lord Mayors of London called Alfred Temple who wished to acquire a collection for the City of London. I arrived at 2. 00 pm, just in time to take one of the guided tours that began at 2. 15 pm and offered an introduction to the gallery. There was enough time for me to use the very plush loos in the basement before arriving at the main deck for the tour. Admission is free and it is certainly worth a visit.

As the guide explained, the refurbishment that cost millions of pounds, did not add to the collection but was spent on essentials such as heating, lighting, making ceilings leak-proof, etc. Still, her one hour tour was a fine introduction to the history of the Lord Mayors of London (not to be confused with the Boris Johnson type). These are elected by the City (which is a tiny part of London that goes roughly from Holborn Circus to just beyond St. Paul’s Cathedral and comprises one square mile. You might spy silvered dragon sculptures occasionally that mark out the boundaries of The City). The really important event surrounding the Lord Mayor who lives in nearby Mansion House is participating in an annual procession called the Lord Mayor’s Parade that includes all the pomp and pageantry of a golden coach that is usually housed in the Museum of London.

The guide showed us three paintings–the gigantic one, supposedly the largest painting in the UK–by the American artist John Singleton Copley depicting the Siege of Gibraltar, The Wounded Cavalier by William Shakespeare Burton and William Lockdale’s depiction of one of the parades. We then moved to one of the special exhibits–the Magna Carta that is on display as this is the 500th anniversary of its creation. All of us know the famous episode of 1215 when the barons rode to Runnymede to present King John with their list of demands to ensure their autonomy. Well, known as the document that gave the world the concept of jurisprudence, there are only 4 original Magna Cartas–two in the British Libraries, one each in Salisbury and Lincoln Cathedrals. I have seen them before, on many various occasions–in the British Library and in Salisbury Cathedral, but it is always fun to look at it again, to see how small and illegible it is and to think that a hand in the 13th century wrote it. This one is especially important as it contains the entire seal that hangs from the bottom of the document to make it truly official. On display only until the end of the month, I would heartily recommend that if you haven’t seen it before, you beat a hasty track to the Guildhall Art Gallery to do so.

Finally, our tour guide took us to the basement to see London’s best-kept secret–the Roman Amphitheater that was discovered quite by chance when the art gallery was being built. Now, of course, we all know that Lodinium was an important Roman settlement and that fragments from gladiatorial days are still be found whenever any digging is done. But to see this sort of thing in the heart of London is still pretty awesome. It has been beautifully staged for the modern visitor to give an idea of actually entering the arena. Again, worth seeing.

The tour ended here, but I decided to return upstairs to look more closely at some of the highlights of the collection: Frederick Lord Leighton’s Two Musicians is one of my favorite paintings and it is here! I had last seen it in Lord Leighton’s House in Holland Park, a few years ago. There are beautiful works by the Pre-Raphaelites too and one I particularly liked from Dorset–Men Quarrying Stone. In the basement, there is a lovely special exhibition on paintings about Tower Bridge through the ages. It is wonderful to see the varied ways in which artists have represented this iconic structure. But with light fading quickly, it was time for me to move to the next item on my list.

The Old Operating Theater in Southwark:

I am amazed how few Londoners have heard of The Old Operating Theater and Herb Garret that are so easily accessible. Attached to Guy’s Hospital and St. George’s Hospital on the South Bank of London, this was the place in which Florence Nightingale did most of her work and made her mark upon the nursing world. Now I have seen a really spectacular Operating Theater in Padua in Italy, so I knew, more or less, what to expect. But that one was grand and beautifully carved. This one was far more utilitarian and, therefore, so much more stark.

The concept of an Operating Theater derives from an educational space in which a surgeon performs an operation which observed by student doctors. It is, therefore, always based around the plan of an amphitheater with rows of stands in semi-circular shape to allow for close observation and study of the proceedings. The ‘bed’ in the center is a primitive wooden bench to which a patient was strapped and operated upon without the aid of anasthesia. Shudder! It was not until Joseph Lister invented anasthesia that such operations became more humane. Patients were brought in from the adjoining hospitals (still working hospitals) but because so little was known about infections, many had successful operations but still died.

Before getting into the Operating Theater, the visitor passes through a large attic filled with all manner of items associated with the practice of Western medicine–some items as weird as powdered snake skins and alligator teeth! There is a plethora of herbs, spices and fruit in various forms (dried, powered, ground to a paste with a pestle in a mortar, etc). Bottles, jars, bowls are part of the museum and, most gruesome, of all, sets of instruments used in surgical practice through the years, from scary looking forceps to saws! Needless to say, I was weak-kneed by the end of it and although I found all of it fascinating, it really is not my cup of tea. Visitors pay 6.50 pounds to enter up a long and very narrow flight of spiral wooden stairs that used to be the original bell tower of St. George’s Church and used by the bell ringers. You can spend more than two hours in this space if you wish to read and examine everything closely. I could only stand being there for an hour. But if you are made of sterner stuff, I would certainly recommend a visit.

By this time it was almost 4.00 pm and I had eaten nothing simply because my big breakfast had kept me going. So I stepped into EAT, bought myself a New England Chicken Pot Pie (one of my favorite things in the world world to eat), then disappeared into the Marks and Sparks across the road to look for a specific item that Llew desired. Unfortunately, they had discontinued their manufacture and it is now only available online–so that is how we shall purchase it. It was time to head off to my last appointment of the day–dinner at the home of my friends in Chelsea.

Dinner with a Judge, a Bishop and His Wife:

A long ride on the Circle Line took me from Moorgate to Sloan Square in the heart of ritzy Chelsea where I was invited to dinner at the home of my friends Michael and Cynthia. It was the first time they were entertaining me in their little flat (actually not so little) after their big move from Amen Court on Ludgate Hill. Although I had seen their flat before, it was before they had officially moved in. It was great to see it looking all lived in and cozy.

Michael and Cynthia had also invited a physician (who had to cancel at the last minute due to an unexpected occurrence) and a judge named Tim from the Old Bailey who happened to be hugely personable and very entertaining. We hit it off immediately as we began to discuss British courtroom drama from Rumpole of the Bailey to the more contemporary ones–such as Judge John Deed who, Tim informs me, is not realistic at all for no judge would ever behave the way he does!  Tim is also a great lover of New York in general and of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in particular–his favorite bit is the American silver collection (it is endlessly fascinating to me what strikes peoples’ fancy). Needless to say, I promised him a private tour the next time he is in the Big Apple. He strongly recommended that I see the Moroni portraits but I am half inclined to believe that they will come to the Met sometime soon. Paucity of time might not make it possible for me to cover it on this trip.

My friend Cynthia’s dinner was simply delicious–a single malt whetted my appetite and then we moved to the table for chicken in a white sauce served with brocolli and carrots and boiled potatoes. Cheese and crackers followed and then came pudding: American-style cheesecake served with fresh stewed blueberries and cream. So simple and yet so good! I was so sorry to have missed seeing Cynthia’s sons who, being hotshot lawyers, keep horrific hours–but I certainly thought of them all evening long.

As a lovely claret had flowed all evening, I was well and truly sleepy and ready for my bed. Michael dropped me to the bus stop by 9. 30 and at 10. 15, I was putting the key through the door of my place in St. John’s Wood.

What a wonderful day I had spent–with art and culture, with shops that lent an unexpected buy, with history and finally with some of the best pals for which a gal can ask! I feel truly blessed every time  I am in London.

As I hit my pillow, I found it hard to believe that my week had almost come to an end–just one day left to make the most of …and I intend to do just that.

Until tomorrow, cheerio!