Tag Archive | Sicily

Ciao Sicily, Buon Giorno Italy

Nov18

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Siracusa-Venice-Vicenza

Ciao Sicily, Buon Giorno Mainland Italy

My flight from Catania on the island of Sicily to Venice on the mainland of Italy was not until 3. 35 pm which meant that I had to be at the airport in Catania at 12. 35 pm. Somehow I seem to have misread my time of departure to 1.35 pm (probably because it was written the European way as 15. 35) and, therefore, decided that I would leave my Hotel Gorizia in Catania by 10. 35 am.

This still left me a couple of hours of the morning free. I sat in the bar today to eat my breakfast of a croissant and a cup of coffee and then I wandered around the Piazza del Duomo to take a turn at the famous fish market which Lonely Planet extolls as a Must-See sight. It was just a hop, a skip and a jump from my hotel so take a turn there I did. I could well understand why I saved it for last–fish markets are really not my cup of tea. I cannot stand the smell and the basic untidiness of it all. I am not so keen on the sight either of baskets of fresh fish with glinting eyes. So I merely stood on the parapet overlooking the market, took a couple of pictures and beat a hasty retreat. The fish market is behind another one of Catania’s landmark fountains–again, nothing very impressive about it either.

Leaving Catania:

I had found the bus stop for the Alibus that would take me back to Catania airport the previous evening. It was not too far from my hotel but I was not sure exactly where I should wait for it and few people on the street could guide me. Eventually, in very tiny letters I spied the very tiny sign that pronounced the bus stop for the Alibus and when I saw it arrive, about 20 minutes later, I was most relieved.

In about 45 minutes, I arrived at Catania airport and that was when I found my airline check-in counter had not even opened. I realized I had mis-read my time of departure and was much too early for my flight. Well, there was the Arrivals Lounge where I could sit at restaurant tables and it was there that I had myself a gelato to pass the time. I found a very nice Italian middle-aged woman for company and in my barely-there Italian I managed to have a very nice exchange with her.

Finally, when the time was right for me to get to the check-in counter, I did go in and got my boarding pass, etc. The flight to mainland Italy was uneventful. Darkness fell swiftly over the land and the sea and when we were landing a couple of hours later in Venice (Treviso) airport, it was pitch dark.

Arriving in Vicenza:

My friend Annalisa had arranged for me to have a shuttle pick me up from Treviso airport and drop me to Vicenza where she lives and where I was to spend two nights at her home with her family. However, she had booked my shuttle to pick me up at least an hour after I landed–so I had some more waiting to do at the airport.

When it was time for me to pick up the shuttle, I was told to go out on the street. But where exactly? There was no signage anyway to inform me where I ought to go and no one (not even the folks at the Welcome Center) could give me proper or specific directions. My entire arrival in mainland Italy was shrouded in confusion and misery. Confusion because nothing was clear and I felt terribly baffled by everything and miserable because it was dark and bitterly cold. Despite being well-clad in a long knee-length down coat with hat, gloves, scarf and warm socks, the contrast in temperatures from Sicily to mainland Italy was so shocking that I felt deeply uncomfortable.

After I waited for what seemed like eternity, the shuttle arrived and the driver picked me up. He told me that he had been trying to reach me on the number he was given–but that did not happen to be mine! Anyway, to make a long story short, I did eventually reach Annalisa’s place in Vincenza and had a lovely reunion with her, her husband Giorgio and her son Giovanni–who had grown and changed so much since I last saw him that I could not believe I was looking at the same person..

Dinner with the Family:

Annalisa had a lovely home-cooked Italian meal ready for my tasting pleasure–which made it the best part of a rather stressful day. There was a delicious pumpkin soup for starters which she served with crusty bread. It was a hearty, filling soup and was followed by a mixed green salad and a torte for dessert. Everything was wonderful. But, best of all, it was grand to be in my dear friend’s company again, to catch up with her and tell her all about my travels in Sicily, to find out what Giovanni was doing (a business degree in English at the local university) and about our plans for the next day. Since I had a trip to the Holy Land planned back to back with my visit to Italy to give a lecture at the University of Padua where Annalisa is a professor, I could not linger long at her home in Vicenza but would be returning to the UK in two days’ time.

When we’d had our fill of food and conversation for one evening, Annalisa showed me to my room. I have used this room on previous visits–so there is a wonderful familiarity about it. It explains why I fell asleep with very little difficulty.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

More Siracusian Surprizes

Nov18

Monday, November 14, 2016

Siracusa

More Siracusian Surprizes

Magnificent Breakfast at Hotel del Coloniali:

I awoke after a really sound sleep in the quietness of the side streets of Sicily in Hotel del Coloniali. A swift shower later, I packed up and descended the stairs for breakfast as my reservation came with one. What a magnificent repast awaited me! Apart from coffee any which way (capuccino, café latte, mocha latte, ciocolatto, con latte caldo, Americano), there was a buffet bar with all sorts of bread and a toaster plus a variety of cheese and cold meats. On the cereal side, there was muesli with dried fruit and nuts and yoghurt and cold milk. There was also fresh fruit and a fruit salad and as if this were inadequate, there was a whole section with Italian cakes and tortes! I ate my fill and more. Then thinking that I had really lucked out with finding this hotel  on Hotels.com, I got ready to move out.

But when I got to the check-out counter, I had a nasty shock. Although I had a print out with me from Hotels.com confirming my reservation and assuring me that I had paid them (Hotels.com) already by credit card and did not need to pay a penny when checking out of Hotel del Coloniali, the receptionist (who had also functioned as the kitchen aide and the waiter) refused to let me depart without paying–again! I do not have enough facility with the language to have argued with him. I tried as best I could, I even showed him my printout but he refused. He said that his hotel had not been paid and I could not leave without paying. I tried to tell him that the man who had checked me in yesterday afternoon (while being unaware of my reservation and not having had a room ready for me), had not told me that I needed to pay. Had he told me so, I could have contact Hotels.com overnight and sorted out the issue. He called the man and spoke in Italian to him. Then he told me that the man informed him that I had not paid and needed to make a payment before leaving.

With no choice on my hands and deciding to take up the matter with hotels.com, I left. I had initially decided to leave my backpack there and return in the evening to pick it up. But after this unpleasant experience, I simply decided to take my bag and leave.

Off to the Archeological Park della Napolis:

The main reason tourists flock to Siracusa is to see its Greek and Roman ruins which are in a fantastic state of preservation. These are concentrated in a ‘Park’ which lies in the north of town. From my rambles yesterday, I realized that Siracusa has a Hop On Hop Off bus and it was that I wished to board to go from one place to the next. However, since I did not have a map of the bus route, and since no one was able to tell me where to board the bus, I ended up walking all the way to the Archeological Park–a distance of about 20 minutes.

Once I got to the Park, I bought a ticket for about 20 euros and was fortunate to find a lady at the souvenir store next door who agreed to stash my backpack while I surveyed the sights. At that point, the Hop On, Hop Off bus came along. I raced to the driver and asked him when he would make his next round to the spot. He told me he would be back in an hour and that I could buy a ticket on the bus. This left me an hour to see the city’s major sights.

The Roman Amphitheater:

The first important site you come upon as you enter the main gates of the complex is the Roman Amphitheater–almost perfectly preserved. Here, the Roman love for blood sports was manifested. They used the oval shape and dimensions of the space–reminiscent of the Coliseum in Rome–for human gladiatorial combat and for man versus animal fights as well as for horse chariot racing–Christians that were thrown to the lions were often part and parcel of this sport. The Spaniards, who also spent some time here in Sicily, had little interest in archaeology and apparently used the marble seats to built Ortygia’s city walls–which explains why so much of it is in such poor shape. Needless to say, it is not a space in which, being conscious of all these facts, I wished to linger. In fact, I wanted to take some pictures and get out of there as quickly as I could. I have to also admit that having seen these ruins already, in other parts of Sicily, they no longer hold much fascination for me. I am actually glad I confined my travels in Sicily to just one coast–I am certain I would have actually gotten quite bored seeing the same sort of thing all over the island.

You walk out of the amphitheater and uphill a few feet past a huge limestone quarry to arrive next at the Greek Theater. At each spot, you are required to show your ticket–a stub of which is torn out with each venue you enter.

The Greek Theater:

The most important of the sights to be seen here is the 5th century Greek Theater which is hewn right out of a rocky hillside and lined with pearl-white marble. Its shape and its location could not have been more striking. What is remarkable about this theater is not only its historical and archeological significance but its literary importance as well. In its capacity of 16,000 seats, this theater saw the production of the works of one of the greatest Greek tragedians of all time–Aeschylus whose play The Persians was debuted here in his presence. I tried to keep this stirring fact in mind as I climbed up and town the well-maintained tiers of this ancient stadium.

The Latomia del Paradiso is yet another part of this complex that bears seeing. It is a massive limestone quarry from which the rocks that form the seats and flooring of the amphitheaters of this area were quarried. Today, it is overtaken by wild vegetation which actually only adds to the atmosphere and antiquity of the spot as the hanging tendrils of banyan trees flow to the ground from great heights.

In this same quarry is a 23 meter high grotto in which the tyrant Dionysius imprisoned 7000 prisoners of the war between Syracuse and Athens in 413 BC. The artist Caravaggio named this the ‘Ear of Dionysius’ as the perfect acoustics of the place enabled the ruler to eavesdrop upon the prisoners without their knowledge. I entered this space which reminded me very much of the narrow canyon in Petra, Jordan, through which visitors pass upon entry into the complex that leads directly to the Khazana or the Treasury building. Here, you are dwarfed by the soaring heights of the stone canyon and even when you get out of it and enter the sunlight again the sheer rock face of the canyon climbing to dizzying dimensions is quite overwhelming.

Once you have seen these main attractions, it only remains to linger, if you wish to, in the complex although it is vast and sprawling and likely to tire one considerably as it is also built in tiers–which involves some climbing up and climbing down.

As I had taken almost an hour to see these sights and was keen to catch the Hop On Hop Off bus, I made my way back towards the ticket office to pick up my backpack. I managed to pick it up and make it to the bus stop in time. In five minutes, the bus appeared. I paid the 8 euros for the ticket and settled myself in a seat. I was also given a set of red earphones and told to tune in to the running commentary in English which gives details of all the locations through which we passed.

The Hop On, Hop Off Bus Tour:

By this time, I was tired and needed to rest my feet. The bus tour was the perfect place in which to find respite from all the walking I was doing. I also enjoyed the commentary as I learned so many interesting facts about the places through which we were passing. Furthermore, when we returned to Ortygia, we passed the same spots through which I had walked yesterday, but by staying on the bus I learned a great deal about them and was able to get some more pictures from an interesting vantage point. One of the parts of Siracusa that I had not covered on foot was the War Memorial that was at the water’s edge, past the Castle Maniace, which was an interesting monument.

The Basilica and Catacombs of St. Giovanni:

We were caught in a massive traffic jam as we tried to negotiate our way out of Ortygia and on to the main part of the city. When we did eventually get out, it started raining–a slight drizzle, but enough to dampen the entire city. I was not sure how to proceed as I still had my backpack with me. However, somewhat miraculously, when we reached the interesting almost-adobe style of the Basilica of San Giovanni which is said to contain some interesting catacombs, I thought I would get off and check them out.

Sadly, they are closed on Mondays–this meant that we (myself and two other male visitors) could not get into the church or the catacombs. I did take some pictures of the outside of the church which its lovely walled and arched entrance and then, knowing that right across the street was another very modern church, I made my way there.

Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro:

The slight drizzle continued. I had no option but to cross the street and get to the very modern-looking octagonal church on the opposite side of the street that looks like an upside-dwn cone. This church has much significance for devout Christians with a devotion to St. Lucy as there is a sculpture of the saint that is supposed to have perspired miraculously. The church has two levels: an upper level and a lower. I did spend quite a while in the church looking over its many chapels and its objects of interest.

A little later, I moved away from the church and went to the bus stop to get back on the Hop On Hop Off bus. By this time, the drizzle was steady, the bus was delayed and as it was the end of the day, there was very little interest in the driver to continue the route. I, therefore, waiting until it reached the bridge between Ortygia and the main island.

Tea at the Harbor:

Left with little choice but to get off at the harbor, I found a shelter from the rain and to have a cup of tea with a canoli–for Sicily is known for this dessert and I had yet to taste. one. I did order a chocolate canoli which was delicious and perfect with a cup of tea. I then got back to the Hop On, Hop Off bus stop for which I waited ages and requested the driver to take me to the main bus terminus so that I could get my bus back to Catania.

  

Return to Catania:

To make a long story short, I did get to the bus stop after a very long wait. I did get the bus that took me back to Catania. I did reach at about 7.30 pm and once again got myself a salad from McDs which I ate back at the Hotel Gorizia where I made myself comfortable again in the same room that I had occupied earlier. The same Receptionist gave me my key and I made myself at home for the night knowing that I would be leaving Catania and Sicily, the next morning, for my flight to Venice for the next leg of my journey–to the University of Padua where I was invited to give a lecture.

Until then…cheerio.

 

 

Sweet Siracusa–Portal for Varied Civilizations

Nov18

Sunday, November 13, 2016

Siracusa

Sweet Siracusa–Portal for Varied Civilizations

Having checked out unofficially last night, I left the key in a mailbox (as instructed) closed the door behind me and left Hotel Gorizia in Catania at 6.00 am while the rest of the city slept it out on a Sunday. The usual ‘bar’ at which I had breakfasted for three days was closed. I had been given a coupon for breakfast at an alternative ‘bar’ closer to Piazza del Duomo and it was there that I chose a croissant and a coffee which I ate at a marble table right outside the café. Then, feeling far more strengthened for the long day ahead of me, I walked down Via Vittorio Emanuelle to get to the bust stop that took me to the main bus terminal where I bought myself a bus ticket for Siracusa (Syracuse in English) and boarded it at about 8.30 am.

Drive to Siracusa:

Siracusa is south of Catania. It was a fairly interesting bus ride past fields that were mainly fallow at this time of year. When I did reach my destination, it was about 11.00 am. I alighted from the bus and went in search of my hotel, the Hotel del Coloniali which was on a quiet street, far from the more frequented part of town. After checking in, I found out that my room was very posh indeed compared to the rather plain and very utilitarian space I had occupied in Catania. It was very prettily decorated, had a TV (no English programs, alas) and a lovely attached bath that was luxurious. I had no time to enjoy it, however, as I merely stashed my backpack away and went out to make the most of the afternoon.

Exploring Ortygia:

Siracusa can basically be divided into two parts separated by a small bridge: the southern bit is known as Ortygia–it comprises a maze of very narrow streets that are quaintly interesting and good to get lost in. Since I had given myself two days  to see Siracusa (which is chocful of antiquated sites), I thought it would be best to do Ortygia today and the northern part of the town tomorrow.

I ended up walking all the way down south from my hotel to Ortygia. The first major site I passed was called the Fountain of Artemis–which, as its name suggests, is dedicated to the Goddess Artemis who dominates a very large sculpture that comprises all sorts of classical figures including horses and cherubs. The Piazza in which it is centered is called the Piazza Archimede and is surrounded by a set of very handsome pallazos and official buildings that have been very carefully preserved. I lingered here for a while and clicked a few pictures before I took a narrow street that led to another major attraction of Ortygia, the Piazza del Duomo.

This piazza is a long marble-bound space that is focused on a grand cathedral called the Duomo, in the Baroque style–both inside and out. Since it was a Sunday, I was keen to catch Sunday Mass and was delighted when I entered and found that Mass (in Italian) had only just begun. Needless to say, I stayed right through it and even received Communion. Apart from the spiritual experience, it gave me a chance to rest my feet.

The Duomo (or Cathedral) was built on the footprint of a 5th century Greek temple to Athena (evident in the Doric columns to be found outside). Inside, it wows with its magnificent decorative details–there are paintings, grand marble sculptures and sparkling candelabra. The painted dome is simply stunning. After Mass, I walked around the various chapels and entered the one dedicated to Santa Lucia (or Saint Lucy) for more reflection.

When I had my fill of the Duomo, I made inquiries as to where I might find a huge art attraction in Siracusa–a painting by Caravaggio entitled ‘The Burial of St. Lucy’. Painted in Malta, after he escaped imprisonment, the painting is said to depict his own anguish at the time–it also contains a self-portrait (he is the anguished person on the right). Masses of people pour into the Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia just to see this painting–the rest of the church is rather plain as well as poorly lit (possibly to preserve the painting). Imagine having a masterpiece by Caravaggio in such a nondescript place. No wonder the prelates try to cash in on it. Photography is strictly prohibited but if you wish to purchase a small postcard of the painting, you will need to fork out a steep five euros! How un-Christian is that????

From this piazza (which, I was told later, was the site for the shooting of a very popular film called Malena starring Monica Belluci), I walked further south to get to the water’s edge. In doing so, you pass by narrow cobbled lanes that are lined by souvenir shops and pizzerias. There were crowds everywhere although the tourist season is long past–but this is probably because Sunday brings a lot of locals out to enjoy a sunny day.

When I did arrive at the water’s edge, I found myself in another crowded stone-clad piazza with a parapet that offered lovely views of the coastline. There was also a fountain of sorts here–but very different from the Fountain of Artemis. This one was more like a semi-circular tank. It had plants in it as well as swans! Real ones! I was not quite sure what to make of it.

From this point, there is a lovely Promenade or walkway along the waterfront with pizzerias on the other side that leads to Castello Maniace (Maniace Castle). This massive stone edifice once guarded the port from intruders. It is worth remembering, at this point, that Siracusa was once a thriving port and that all sorts of invaders, conquerors and adventurers from Phoenicians and Etruscans, Greeks and Romans, Arabs and Europeans have sailed through its waters and arrived at its harbor. The castle rested quietly in the strong sunshine surrounded by low buildings in classical Greek style and soft shades of ivory and salmon pink. There was actually a little bit of beach at this point and sunbathers and swimmers were enjoying the sand and the water. The water was a clear aquamarine and quite lovely on that particular morning.

From the Castle (which was closed at the time I tried to enter it), I took a small side street through Ortygia. Balconies sprouting from the buildings protruded out as if reaching towards those on the other side. These buildings have clearly seen better days. There is not much time or money devoted to their maintenance, but they do add to the authentic quaintness of the space. After a wander of about 15 minutes, I found myself back at the Piazza del Duomo and since Lonely Planet had extolled the economical virtues of a little eatery right opposite the Cathedral that offered wonderful people-watching ops, I chose to eat my lunch there as I was starving.

Lunch at Piazza del Duomo:

When I arrived at the restaurant, I discovered that on Sundays they did a buffet brunch for 5 euros! I had a look at the brunch and found its offering to be more of the snacky sort–loads of bread filled rolls made small hamburger-style sandwiches, bruschetta, etc. Drinks were another 5 euros. I ended up with a small Campari cocktail which was very refreshing and all the fingers food I could eat–it really was a bargain! While seated there, I spied a young man that had conversed with me on the bus to Taormina yesterday. He was a Chinese student from Shanghai called Yang who is studying currently in London. I beckoned to him and he decided to join me for lunch. He passed on the buffet and got a Pizza instead and it was the largest personal pizza either or us had ever seen. He invited me to join him in devouring it but, by that time, I had eaten my fill of the buffet and I politely declined! It was he who clicked my picture in the piazza after informing me about the movie shot here and about how famous it was. I had to admit ignorance.

Back in Hotel:

Lunch done, I said goodbye to Yang. I was rather tired and decided to re-trace my steps back to my hotel to enjoy it for a few hours. It was a very long walk back–about 45 minutes–and there was no public transport in sight. Sicily is filled with African immigrants who make a paltry living selling souvenirs on the streets. Everywhere in Sicily that I traveled, I found the place filled with these new black migrants who do not speak English, have picked up a smattering of Italian and survive precariously through the kindness of the locals. There are also a lot of South Asian immigrants whom, I was told, are either from Afghanistan or Pakistan–everyone seems to be seeking safe harbor in Italy or a better standard of living–just as the ancients once did.

I passed the pretty port and its jetties, walked over the bridge and left Ortygia to arrive at the more residential parts of the city. When I did get to my hotel, it was about 4.00 pm, but I was really tired and ready for a nice long nap in my lovely darkened, cool room. After a nap and a spot of reading of tourist literature (What should I do tomorrow? Where should I go and how do I get there?), I jumped into the shower and then with darkness falling over the city, scrapped the idea of getting dinner anywhere on my own. My lunch had been substantial and more than saw me through to dinner.

Ortygia had been quite exciting but I was well aware that the bulk of my Siracusa sightseeing would occur tomorrow.

Until then…cheerio…

Enchanted by Taormina–A Sicilian Gem!

Nov18

Saturday, November 12, 2016

Taormina-Catania

Enchanted by Taormina–A Sicilian Gem

    I left for Taormina this morning from my Hotel Gorizia in Catania with a less anxious heart. Having seen the bus station yesterday and knowing where to get my ticket, I felt more confident. Taormina is further north of Mount Etna but the bus journey was no more than two hours. Accordingly, I picked up my breakfast (croissant and coffee) from the ‘bar’ around the corner and walked along Via Vittorio Emanuelle to reach the main square from where buses were headed in the direction of the main bus stop. From there, I found out where I needed to wait for the bus to Taormina–it was in a large bus-station that had destinations clearly marked at each bay–and from where I could get my return ticket. It was very reasonably priced. The bus-station also has a very nice waiting room and I stayed there for about half an hour before getting to the bus station to pick up my bus. I was amazed to discover that buses ply from here to every city in Europe.

Arrival in Taormina:

I arrived at Taormina at about 10.30 am. The drive for the last half hour was truly spectacular as the bus climbed the mountain on which the city of Taormina is situated. As it took the hairpin bends in its stride, it left us with stunning views of the East Coast of Sicily–I could not get enough of them and my camera worked overtime.

At the top, once we got off the bus-stop, almost every passenger walked a little backwards to the lookout point where the views are at their best. Once we had posed against the backdrop of the sparking ocean, we proceeded along a sloping road to the top of the hill where a large ‘doorway’ heralded entry into the city.

From the minute we got off the bus, we were inundated with souvenir shops and eateries for the venue is a very popular tourist destination. At the main square, you make a left and walk for another five minutes to arrive at the central junction. From this point, most visitors make a bee-line for Taormina’s most spectacular monument, the Greek Theater (or the Teatro Greco).

The Greek Theater (Teatre Greco):

Because it is so popular a site, entry fees to this monument are a steep 20 euros. In a way, this forces you to spend time at this sensational place–because you do feel as if you ought to get your money’s worth. I was certainly going to get the fullest benefit of being in this location.

Taormina’s Greek Theater is so miraculously well-preserved that you have to wonder whether or not parts of it are refurbished (they are). It is a perfect horseshoe shape with a good part of the building comprising the stage still intact. As you climb the tiers that formed the stands in which the audience sat, you will find that it offers really stunning views of the snow-covered peak of Mount Etna which seems to perform a sort of blessing over this town with its benign presence. You can spend as much time as you like in this space in which the Greek dramatist Aristophanes (Clouds, the Frogs) is said to have debuted some of his major works and indeed been present at their performance.

I spent a really leisurely hour in the precincts of the theater where the views of sapphire-blue sea is matched only by the emerald-green of the mountain vegetation and the sparkling diamond-like ice-cap on the mountain.  The ingenuity of  classical Greek architectural design is much in evidence at the best location of a Greek Theater in the whole world.

Discovering Corso Umberto:

After leaving the Greek Theater behind, I bought a magnet and postcard from one of the little souvenir shops and had a pistachio gelato in a small bar which allowed me to rest my feet for a long while.

I then began my discovery of the main artery of the town called Corso Umberto which is an ultra-chic street lined on both sides with upscale jewelry shops, art galleries and trendy designer boutiques–all of which cater to the crowds of cruise-ship traffic that can’t get enough of this adorable town. My shopping was confined to the window variety! When the narrowness of the street ends, you find yourself in a large square called Piazza IX Aprile where a large clock tower set in an arched door gateway is a lovely landmark.

This Piazza is also the site of the Church of St. Guiseppe which is supposed to be an absolute jewel. However, it was closed and I later discovered that part of the roof caved in and has led to its long-term closure. This is a popular stop for the clicking of pictures against the gorgeous coastline which shimmered in the bright sunshine on a perfect day and was very reminiscent to me of France’s Cote d’Azure (as I remembered it from a trip taken almost 30 years ago).

You continue your walk along Corso Umberto until you come to the very end when you will be surrounded again by restaurants and small shops. There are many side streets you can take on the right side that will get you into the quainter, less touristic, parts of the city–but I did not have the energy to explore those.

Lunch in the Villa Communale:

Instead, I took the side streets on the ocean-side of the town that were quiet and deserted. Most times I was the only human being walking down the streets with a lone car occasionally breaking the silence. Using my map, I tried to make my way to the next spot of interest, the Villa Communale or the Public Gardens. I found them after a 12 minute saunter and it was under the shade of one of the trees, facing the ocean and its stirring sea breeze that I ate my pizza lunch.

The Villa Communale, a series of tiered gardens, were laid out by the Englishwoman Florence Trevelyan in the late 19th century. Her vision has provided the city with these glorious gardens that are filled with tropical plantings and trees whose spreading branches made the ideal locale for a series of old and contemporary sculptures. Furthermore, there is a very interesting stone ‘folly’ tucked into the folds of the garden that provide neat picture ops. I lingered in the gardens for a long while as they do provide a wonderful retreat and an opportunity to rest.

More Walking, More Exploring:

I left the Gardens behind me and made my way slowly back to the main parts of Corso Umberto. I passed by lots of palazzos that have been converted into upscale hotels and private palazzos for the rich and famous. D.H. Lawrence, the English novelist, made his home here for three years and the place is popular with modern-day artists as well. I could see why. There really is not one ugly bit in this town. Everywhere you turn, you are enchanted by its beauty. While Nature has imbued the town with a spectacular location, man has carefully preserved its integrity and all construction has been pleasingly done. It is delightful to the eye and soothing to the soul. Of all the places I visited in Sicily, I adored Taormina.

 

Back on the Bus to Catania:

There was a bus back to Catania at 4. 15 pm which I intended to catch. And so, I made my way down the hill very slowly, pausing often at shops to take in the souvenirs–lots of ceramics and small paintings depicting views of the town–and eventually found my way to the terminus. There, I waited for about 15 minutes, when along came the bus that took me back to Catania where I reached at about 6. 30 pm.

I picked up a salad from McDs on my way back to my hotel and ate it in my room. I then showered and prepared for bed and for an early start as I would be leaving for Syracuse tomorrow. I went to the sweet Receptionist who carried out my check out procedure. I told him that I would be back for the final night of my stay in Sicily and he wished me well.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

Mounting the Heights of Etna and Zafferana

Nov18

Friday, November 11, 2016

Mount Etna-Catania

I earmarked today for a trip to Sicily’s most famous mountain and active volcano, Mount Etna. In fact, Etna is all about the volcano and to get there from Catania, you need to take a bus. Trains are available as well, but they are apparently not as reliable as the bus service. At Hotel Gorizia in Catania, breakfast was included with my room tariff. Since the place was under major renovation, breakfast meant the dishing out of daily coupons to be exchanged for breakfast at a local ‘bar’. There I received a croissant of my choice (plain, chocolate, creama) and a hot drink of my choice (I usually asked for a café con latte caldo, per favore). See? My Italian picked up by the day!!!

Armed with breakfast that I decided to eat on the bus journey, I took a cab whicih it was still dark from Piazza del Duomo to the bus station (for 10 euros). From there, I bought a ticket on the local bus system to get to Etna. I was told that the driver would be passing through Milo, where I had made a reservation at a local B&B called Loriana. Mind you, I had made all these bookings in haste using only the internet as a guide as I have absolutely no idea of the geography of this region.

When I boarded the bus, I managed to convey to the driver that I wished to get off at Milo–the hotel had instructed me to get off at the “Chiesa” (church). The bus journey was very pleasant indeed (along the highway, for the most part) with the last ten minutes of side roads that brought Mount Etna quite suddenly and excitingly into view. I took pictures from the bus.

When I arrived at the “Chiesa” in Milo, at about 9.00 am, there was only a deserted square staring me in the face. I had absolutely no clue what to do. I made my way then towards a small bar where a cluster of elderly men seemed to be enjoying their first coffees and smokes of the day. I approached the barman who barely understood any English. Thrusting the address of my B&B under his nose, he got the idea–but he drew a blank. He had no idea where B&B Loriana was. He then boomed out to attract the attention of all the cranky hangers-on. Does anyone know where B&B Loriana is?–I guessed that was what he barked out. One chap came forward and rattled off something in Italian. He beckoned me to follow him to the end of a wide platform overlooking the spreading landscape below me–for the church was on a hill. He pointed out the general direction of B&B Loriana but I could see that it involved a climb down a winding road. I was deeply disappointed. I asked him if a taxi might be available. He shook his head vigorously to inform me that they were non-existent in these remote parts. I was, nowhere near Mount Etna, as far as I could see. Instead, he next beckoned me to follow him and I discovered that he was taking me to a private car. I soon got the idea: he was offering me a lift to the B&B in his own car!!! Now how kind and how unexpected was that? I did not have the language to express to him that it was most unnecessary. Muttering non-stop, he opened the door for me and suggested that I get in. I was still too dazed about the offer to contemplate the sagacity of getting into a car with a stranger in the middle of Milo! So in I got while hoping for the best and off we went.

We were at the B&B in about five minutes. At the gate, I rang the bell. It was opened by a black man who  welcomed me in and when I explained in English that I had a reservation there, he grew warmer in his welcome. I thanked the stranger who helped me by saying ‘Grazie Mille’ about a mille times!!! Inside, I met a younger white man, the proprietor apparently, who also welcomed me in. He told me that my room was not ready yet as check-in time was 10.00 am. However, he permitted me to leave my backpack in the room where it would be safe. I did so, used the loo and then asked him for directions to get to Etna. And that’s where it got seriously disheartening! When I informed him that I intended to spend the night at his establishment and take the bus tomorrow to Taormina, he discouraged me vigorously. He said that the bus service from Milo was very erratic and he advised me to return to Catania and take a bus from there! This seemed rather counter-productive to me. I did not wish to travel down south only to pass through this region when traveling north again. There had to be a better way!!! But, for the moment, I was focused on getting to Mount Etna.

Getting to Mount Etna:

It turns out that in the off-season, Mount Etna is very poorly connected to the plains. I was much too late in the day, it appeared, to get the bus that usually took visitors from Zefferana, the nearest town. However, he suggested I take the local bus to Zefferana, from where, he said, there would be some form of transport available to me–he was not sure what that could be. When he tried to explain where the bus stop was, I discovered that I would need to climb the hill and get back to church where the bus-stop was located. To assist me, he sent the black worker who had opened the gate for me. En route to the bus stop, I discovered that the black worker was from Senegal and that he spoke French. We then began a very fruitful conversation in French and I felt somewhat reassured.

The bus rolled around soon enough. I boarded it, paid my fare on board (3 euros) and told the driver to tell me when to get off. It took about 15 minutes along a winding mountain road to get to Zefferana where I got off and looked for help. I felt hopelessly lost. In a large square overlooked by a church were a few shops. I inquired of someone for a Tourist Information Center and was directed to a small office that was locked. I tried another office next door and a woman there made a call, spoke to someone on the phone and then told me to return to the Information Center where someone would soon arrive to assist me. Thankfully, the young woman who materialized spoke fluent English. She gave me brochures and information about Zeffarana but nothing about Mount Etna (which lay outside her jurisdiction!). She did tell me that there was only one bus a day to Mount Etna (which left at 9.00 am daily). It was about 11.00 am by the time I was in her office. I asked if there was any other means of transport to get there and she told me only taxis could get me there. It would be a pricey ride (50 euros return fare with the driver waiting for me up there). I was loathe to spend 50 euros on transport when a bus would cost me 3 euros! Still, at the end of the day, I would feel like an idiot if I actually got to the foot of Mount Etna and did not climb it–I would have no option but to cab it up there. I asked her if the cabbie would consider reducing the fare- She called, inquired on my behalf and said he would take 40! Then began the search for a bank that would exchange my dollars into euros–for I did not have that much money on me. Though I tried at three banks, none was willing to exchange money. Finally, I did something I had never done before while traveling. I actually used my American ATM card from my bank–and lo and behold, it belched out 100 euros that filled me with the most exquisite relief and the deepest sense of security. So back, I went to the Tourist Office where the lady called the cabbie who arrived ten minutes later. He turned out to be the sweetest old Italian man. We could not speak a word to each other, but he knew his job. He would get me up the mountain and then wait until I was done and ready to make my way down. After what had seemed like a harrowing morning worming my way through a dark and lonely tunnel, I suddenly started to see the light at the end of it.

Scaling Mount Etna:

As you get closer to Mount Etna, the drive becomes visually more and more interesting. After you cross the tree line, you are on a sand-colored mountain with not a shred of vegetation. The city of Zeffarana spreading out at the base makes a pretty sight. The cabbie dropped me to the small town that comprises Mount Etna–which is no bigger than a single street really with a few shops scattered about. This is the base for boarding the cable car that takes visitors to the top of the mountain and its calderas or craters.

I joined the line for the cable car and with just three people ahead of me, I got my ticket in minutes (it cost me 15 euros to get to the top) in the cable car that is known as the Funvia Dell’Etna. For another 15 euros, one can board a sand buggy that takes you to the very summit. I did not think it was prudent to spend so much when I had already incurred heavy expense on the cab. Getting to the first level would be more than enough for me.

And that was how I got to the top of Mount Etna at about 12 noon. The cable car ride was swift (about 7 minutes) and the receding sight of the city and the Etna base was interesting. Once up there, I discovered that it was bitterly cold and I was very grateful for my warm, full-length down coat, scarf, gloves and hat.  There is really not much to do at the top except take in the stirring views and pose for pictures. Patches of snow were evident all around us and there were some rather slushy bits as well. I think I stayed up for about 15 minutes and when it got too uncomfortably cold, I made my way back to the cable car platform which took me past a series of shops that offered souvenirs and tastings of some of the local goodies for Zeffarana is the honey capital of Italy. Local chocolate is also well-praised.

Ten minutes later, I was down again at Etna base. I bought a couple of postcards from a shop and a couple of pizzas for lunch–one for me and one for the cab driver. Forty-five minutes later, we were back in Zefferana and I was waiting in the square for the next bus. The Tourist Office had closed for the day but the lady had informed me that there was a bus at 2. 30 pm back to Milo. As I waited for it, I strolled a bit around the pretty town, entered the Baroque church overlooking the square and peered down at the lovely municipal gardens constructed in tiers on the opposite side of the hill. I l also ate my pizza while waiting.

It was while I was on the bus that I made the lightning decision not to spend the night at B&B Loriana (technically, I had not even checked in), but to take the bus back to Catania and the Hotel Gorizia. If there was room for me, I would head there right away. I kept my fingers crossed and when I reached the B&B, I told the proprietor what I had decided to do. He thought it a very good idea, considered my reservation cancelled and found me a ride with a lady who was just leaving his B&B, back to the bus-stop to board the last bus of the day back for Catania. And so it was that I took the 3. 30 bus to Catania from Milo, having accomplished my mission–climbing to Mount Etna.

Back in Catania:

I reached Catania by 4. 30 pm, but it was already getting dark by this time. The driver dropped me off at Via Vittorio Emanuelle which involved a 45 minutes slow walk to my hotel past exciting chain stores, fast food shops, etc. I popped into a McDs, picked up a delicious salad with apples and walnuts and by the time I got into my room, I was so exhausted, I could merely flop on the bed and get some rest.

A little later, I showered, ate my salad, did some tourist reading for my journey to Taormina tomorrow and went off to sleep.

It had been a day of mixed experiences. A great deal of disappointment, a trip up a volcanic mountain that offered nothing to rave about but for swatches of black lava and black sand all over  the place and a small town that was almost deserted.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

Easing into Italy–Arrival in Catania and Initial Exploration

Nov18

Thursday, November 10, 2016

London-Catania, Sicily

Leaving Early for Italy:

Because I was able to find a budget airline offering a flight to Catania in Sicily for peanuts that left Gatwick at 7.25 am, I made the mistake of booking it!  Question was: How could I get to the airport by 6.00 to make my international flight? The Answer: I spent the night in Battersea at my friend Roz’s place. She had driven me to Clapham Junction last night to buy myself a train ticket to Gatwick. On discovering that there was a 5.00 am train to Gatwick form Clapham Junction, I called a mini-cab to her place to pick me up at 4. 30 am! This meant waking at the unearthly hour of 4.00 am–but wake I did! The cabbie arrived on time, deposited me at the station in under ten minutes and there I was. The station was practically deserted when I arrived there, so I sought refuge from the cold and found company in a Waiting Room on a platform. Just before 5.00 am, I discovered that there was a platform change. I raced off with my backpack to the next platform where a sizeable number of people had gathered to take the same train. Five minutes later, it arrived and less than an hour later, I was deposited safely at Gatwick, well in time for my flight. We departed on schedule on an Easyjet flight and at 11. 00 am local time, I was touching down at Catania airport ready to begin my exploration of Sicily with slight twinges of anxiety being insistently quelled.

Getting to my Hotel in Catania:

Catania is a major city on the east coast of Sicily. It makes a good base for exploring the area and I had made a booking through Hotels.com at Hotel Gorizia which seemed very well located. Following directions given to me by the hotel, I took the airport bus called the Alibus and for 5 euros I was dropped off at a central spot just behind a big Cathedral.

I had a bit of a challenge trying to find my hotel from this point on as I was not familiar with the layout of the area–it turned out it was not too far away from where I was dropped off, but because I do not speak a word of Italian and there no one to speak English to me, I had to struggle until I did find my way using my picture of the map that I had taken on my phone.

Hotel Gorizia turned out to be located just behind the major square of the Cathedral of St. Agatha which is known as Piazza del Duomo.–a very well-known part of the city. But, to my disappointment, I discovered that the entire Reception area was under renovation. The Receptionist, a very nice man, was also involved in the painting and wall-papering and, to make matters worse, he did not speak a word of English. However, we managed to made ourselves intelligible to each other and he took me down a steep flight of stairs to show me my room–fortunately, he did have my reservation listed in his books!

My room was adequate. It had a TV set that carried no English programs (which made it useless, as far as I was concerned).  It also had an attached bath that was clean and new with a shower cubicle and toiletries. My bed was comfortable and since I carry my own pillow, no matter where in the world I travel, I am reasonably sure of a comfortable night. It was by then a little after 1.00 pm, so I lost no time in stashing my bag away and going out in search of a few of the sights that Lonely Planet extolled.

Sightseeing in Catania:

I kicked off my sightseeing in the Piazza del Duomo which is a city landmark because it is focused around a very strange fountain known as the Fontana dell Elefant. It is basically an obelisque  that protrudes from the back of an elephant. Right in front of it is the magnificent Cathedral of St. Agatha, patron saint of Sicily. I would keep a visit to the church for another day.

I walked down the main artery of the city called Via Vittorrio Emanuelle with the idea of getting to the main attraction of Catania, the remains of the Roman amphitheater. In getting there, I passed by the other famous square comprising the buildings of the university–beautiful Baroque buildings in a very good state of preservation. When I did eventually find the amphitheater, I spied the remains of two lovely columns behind which the amphitheater itself is concealed underground behind a vast wrought-iron circle. There are many posters providing information in English and in Italian about Imperial Catania that can be gathered from looking at the ruins. I would soon realize that Sicily has so many such ruins that these were really not very special compared to the grand monuments I would see in the days to come.

The next place I headed to were the streets behind the amphitheater known as Via Crociferi where old medieval churches lined both sides of the street. It was a lovely afternoon with only a few people strolling around. I walked under the arch of St. Benedict and arrived at the Church of St. Francis. Sadly, none of the churches were open, but viewing them from the outside made me feel as if I was well and truly in Italy. On this street, one also comes across a number of museums and the home of the Italian composes Bellini who took his inspiration from his surroundings.

Leaving this area behind and following the map in my hands, I went in search of the Greco-Roman Archeological Park which is a great example of classical ruins in a superb state of preservation. You can see the remains of a second-century Roman theater and an adjoining rehearsal theater known as the Odeon. What is interesting is that the ruins sit right in the middle of a busy residential district. As you scale the various levels of the Odeon, you are actually looking into modern homes! There are also banyan-tree covered ruins in another section for nature has encroached upon this area and make it very atmospheric.

In Search of Dinner–Pasta Alla Norma:

Since the night comes early in this season, I did not have much daylight to work with after 5.00 pm. I, therefore, set out for dinner and having read guide books that told me not to leave Catania without tasting Pasta alla Norma, I found the best kind served in a little trattoria on a side street. Pasta alla Norma is named after one of the operatic characters in an opera by Bellini. It is a delicious concoction of penne pasta topped by tomato sauce (which is said to replicate the fire on Mount Etna), ricotta cheese (the snow on the volcanic mountain), basil leaves (the green vegetation on the mountains) and black olives (reminiscent of the lava formed by the volcano). I have to say that it was simply delicious and with a glass of red house wine, it was the perfect first meal in Italy. I had no room for dessert after eating that large bowl of pasta.

During dinner, I shared conversation with a couple from Denmark who had just completed medical school and were ready to begin their internship back home. We were on the same route for the next few days and were also deriving all our tourist information from the same source–Lonely Planet.

I walked back home along fairly crowded streets to get back to my hotel where I had a shower and prepared myself for my travels of the morrow.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…